#每天讀一點(diǎn)服裝史# ELEGANT FORMALITY

1560 - 1590

ELEGANT FORMALITY

As the century progressed so the gradual stiffening of women's dress continued.

The increasingly rigid garments needed extra support, and separate boned "pairs of bodies" (stiff undergarments) worn under gowns started to appear -- the beginning of stays and corsetry.

Linear bands and braids followed the clothing's sharp lines and emphaisized its control of body shape.

The body's natural lines rarely appeared.

The rise and power of the Spanish empire made their severe formality and clever tailoring fashionable, although in many Italian areas a more relaxed soft look held sway.

Ruffs slowly widened and became separate from shirt collars.

Labor - intensive lace made its first appearance and became a mark of luxury -- similar to velvets or jewels.

Necklines were either at bust level or up to the chin.

The silhouette stayed triangular with narrow waists ending in sharp points and full skirts.

The tops of sleeves of women's dresses started to be styled into puffs, tabs, and rolls.

Male and female fashions followed similar trends of adornments, cut and color.

Anna,Queen of Spain


ACCESSORIES

The 16th century saw an increase in the variety and adornment of accessories for both men and women.

Gloves, made of the finest leather, could be embroidered, and were given as tokens of respect and affection.

Fans were popular in hot countries.

Linen handkerchiefs were a splendid way to show off the new techniques of needle and bobbin lace.

When shoes became visible, their heels and rosettes became equally decorative.

Silk and gold ribbons, used in abundance if possible, were also a form of accessory because of their high price.

Gloves


HAIRSTYLES

New clothes were costly and time consuming but hair could be changed every day.

Another example of the inventive Renaissance love of finery, women's hair during the 16th century was parted in the center, swept over the temples, curled, crimped, arranged over pads to keep the shape, frizzled, bewigged, piled into high peaks, or hidden.

In Italy, bleaching hair blonde was particularly popular, as in the drawing of the Venetian woman below.

Hair on the back of the head was curled up in braids and became a support for hats and headdresses, attached with pins.

Women added jewels, ribbons, and feathers, like the ribbons perched on Anne of Denmark's fluffy mounds of hair.

Anna with cruel hair and ribbon


公元1560 - 1590年

優(yōu)雅禮節(jié)

隨著世紀(jì)的演進(jìn),女裝變化也在逐漸增加。

日益死板的服裝需要額外的支持,以及分開去骨的胸衣(剛性內(nèi)衣)開始出現(xiàn),這是緊身胸衣的開始。

線型編織帶遵循服裝的曲折線條,強(qiáng)調(diào)對(duì)身體形狀的控制。

身體的自然線條消失了。

西班牙王朝的崛起和權(quán)利造就他們嚴(yán)格的禮節(jié)和巧奪天工的裁剪時(shí)尚,盡管在許多意大利地區(qū)人們?nèi)员S懈杂伤绍浀耐庥^穿著。

層狀花邊慢慢變寬,開始從襯衫領(lǐng)上分開。

集中型蕾絲得到首次亮相并且成為奢侈品的標(biāo)志,與天鵝絨或珠寶類似。

領(lǐng)口亦或是低到胸部,亦或直接高到下巴。

輪廓仍舊保持窄腰三角形直到連接長裙處結(jié)束。

女裝連衣裙的袖籠頂部開始流行泡泡袖與滾邊袖。

男性與女性服飾都遵循相似的裝飾剪裁與色彩趨勢(shì)。

西班牙皇后安娜


配飾

在十六世紀(jì)可以看到,男性與女性配飾的種類和裝飾都有所增加。

手套,由最好的皮革制成,能夠繡花,并且賦予尊敬與情感的標(biāo)記。

扇子在炎熱國家很受歡迎。

亞麻手帕是炫耀新針法和線軸蕾絲的璀璨手段。

當(dāng)鞋子變得可見時(shí),鞋跟與玫瑰成為相同的裝飾品。

絲綢與金絲帶被盡可能的豐富使用,因?yàn)閮r(jià)格高昂他們同時(shí)也是配飾的一種。

伊麗莎白女王的羽毛扇子


發(fā)型

新衣服是昂貴并且費(fèi)時(shí)的,但頭發(fā)可以每天變換花樣。

另一個(gè)文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期華麗服飾的例子,女性頭發(fā)在十六世紀(jì)是從中間分開的,向后掃過太陽穴,卷曲,波浪,安置襯墊保持造型,小卷發(fā),假發(fā),堆積得高高的,或者隱藏起來。

在意大利,漂白頭發(fā)的金發(fā)女郎很受歡迎,就像下面畫中的威尼斯女郎。

頭腦勺的頭發(fā)卷曲收進(jìn)辮子里,成為帽子與頭飾的支撐,并以發(fā)卡固定。

女士們加上珠寶,絲帶還有羽毛,就像詹姆一世的皇后安妮將絲帶佩戴在蓬松的頭發(fā)上。

詹姆一世的皇后安妮,蓬松的卷發(fā)發(fā)髻上佩戴絲帶裝飾,領(lǐng)口有新型分開式蕾絲領(lǐng)。
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