1681 - 1720
MANTUAS AND PETTICOATS
From the 1680s the mantua became the chief item of women's dress, with a linen smock or shift remaining as the main undergarment.
A full-length, coatlike garment with elbow-length sleeves, the mantua was worn over the stiffened bodice and skirt of earlier periods.
Closed from neck to waist, the sides and back were folded up and secured at the waistline to reveal the skirt below.
To fit beneath the mantua, the bodice had straps instead of sleeves and was formed like a corset.
It opened down the center back with a lace closure and was still long and stiffened and cut low on the chest.
The petticoat was full and gathered in at the waistline.
By the 1690s the top part of the mantua was worn open to show the bodice.
STAYS AND STOMACHER
Stays or bodices, still an essential part of women's dress, were made of whalebone stitched between two layers of buckram, a stiffened linen fabric.
Bodices were often covered with embroidered silk; a decorated panel, or stomacher, might be worn over the top for further embellishment or contrast.
公元1681 － 1720年
MANTUA外套與PETTICOAT襯裙
十七世紀(jì)80年代，mantua曼圖亞長袍成為女裝的首要單品，搭配亞麻衫作為主要內(nèi)衣。
這款拖地長度，袖長到手肘的外套式樣的mantua曼圖亞，早期時(shí)候罩在僵硬胸衣與長裙外面。
從頸部到腰部收緊，側(cè)面與背部做折疊的處理，腰線以下露出裙子。
為了貼合曼圖亞的穿著，上衣用帶子替換了袖子，使之形成緊身胸衣的樣子。
它的設(shè)計(jì)是在后背中間打開，以抽帶收緊閉合，款型仍舊細(xì)長僵硬，領(lǐng)口開得很低。
襯裙飽滿，腰線處聚集了褶子。
到了十七世紀(jì)90年代，mantua曼圖亞的頂部在穿著時(shí)是打開的，以顯示優(yōu)美的上身曲線。
STAYS胸衣與STOMACHER胸片
Stays胸衣或者BODICES胸衣，仍舊是女裝的重要組成部分，它由兩層硬襯布，一層硬亞麻，中間加魚骨縫制固定。
胸衣常以絲綢繡花做表面；一款裝飾性胸衣，會(huì)在頂部露出一截作為點(diǎn)綴或?qū)Ρ取?/p>
