#每天讀一點(diǎn)服裝史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY

1790 -1839

THE RISE OF THE DANDY

Gentlemen in this period prided themselves on the quality of their wool cloth and the tailoring and fit of their clothes.

Earlier interest in elaborate brocaded and embroidered silks disappeared as the upper classes affected a country look.


1790 COUNTRY LOOK

Men’s coats were now of fine wool, in rural colors, and developed waist seams from the 1820s.

Tailors perfected a range of coat styles for different occasions.

Pantaloons and trousers gradually replaced breeches.

The riding crop, cane, or umbrella, together with beaver hat, buckskin gloves, and riding boots, were now essential accessories for the man about town.

Some of the most exacting Regency dressers, such as Beau Brummell, paid extraordinary attention to every last detail of their appearance.

White cotton vests and fine white linen stocks and cravats were a hallmark of their style.


1832

THE MALE PEACOCK

Dandies were the successors of the decadent Macaronis and foppish Incroyables.

They liked to eclipse their female companions with their finery, as shown by this cartoon.

The man struts along like a male peacock, walking on tiptoe to make himself look taller and thinner, a gait that indicates extreme pride in his appearance.


Dandies spent hours tying their stocks and cravats, wore jewels and perfume, had their hair carefully dressed, and were prepared to be laced into corsets to achieve a small waist.

In total, they spent a small fortune on their wardrobe.


1815

1790 -1839

花花公子的時(shí)代

這段時(shí)期的紳士們以身著上佳質(zhì)量與合身剪裁的羊毛布料服飾為榮。

早期對(duì)于精致繡花與刺繡絲綢的興趣已經(jīng)消失,在被上層階級(jí)影響的整個(gè)國(guó)家穿著風(fēng)格里可以看得出來(lái)。


1807

男士大衣現(xiàn)以細(xì)羊毛,鄉(xiāng)村色調(diào),以及來(lái)自十九世紀(jì)20年代的腰線位置為主。

裁縫師完善了適合不同場(chǎng)合的外套款式。

燈籠褲pantaloons與休閑褲trousers逐漸取代了馬褲。


騎師短發(fā),手杖或者雨傘,搭配海貍帽,皮草手套和馬靴,成為城里人的重要搭配元素。

一些最講究的攝政穿著者,如布魯梅爾(Beau Brummell),非常注意他們身上的每一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)。

白色棉質(zhì)馬甲,白色細(xì)亞麻布領(lǐng)巾是他們的標(biāo)志。


1838

雄性孔雀

丹迪斯是紈绔子弟與花花公子的繼承者。

他們的精美裝扮常常使身旁的女伴黯然失色,就像很多卡通插圖里的那樣。

他們趾高氣昂大搖大擺的樣子就像雄性孔雀一樣,踮起腳尖走路會(huì)使他們看起來(lái)更高更瘦,全然一副自信滿滿地步態(tài)。


花花公子們花整把的時(shí)間在他們的領(lǐng)巾,珠寶佩戴和香水上,他們的頭發(fā)精心修飾,并且為了更小的腰圍而穿上緊身胸衣。

總的說(shuō)來(lái),他們?cè)谝聶焕锸腔艘还P錢的。


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