2019年06月12日朝刊
入梅いわし
Rainy season got you down? Chiba sardines said to soothe the spirit
[中文譯文]
梅雨季節(jié)，也是千葉縣的銚子漁港一年之中魚(yú)最肥的季節(jié)。這個(gè)季節(jié)大概從六月末一直持續(xù)到7月中旬。在當(dāng)?shù)乇唤凶觥叭朊贰薄?/p>
銚子市水產(chǎn)課稱(chēng)，這個(gè)說(shuō)法在江湖后期的文獻(xiàn)里面也被提到過(guò)。在銚子站前和丈夫一起共同經(jīng)營(yíng)飲食店的，61歲的長(zhǎng)谷川政代說(shuō)：“這是在銚子無(wú)論誰(shuí)都知道的詞匯”?！皬募贡持醒雱冮_(kāi)薄薄的皮，就能看到3毫米左右的白色脂肪，入口即化的甘甜，真的是絕品”。
為了把他們引以為豪的魚(yú)推廣開(kāi)來(lái)，長(zhǎng)谷川和朋友們一起成立了“銚子美食研究會(huì)”，并于4年前開(kāi)始了“沙丁魚(yú)節(jié)”。僅限6月和7月，生魚(yú)片加天婦羅，泡菜蓋飯，魚(yú)丸湯和沙丁魚(yú)，想吃多少就吃多少。雖然參加的店鋪只有6家，但是第一年就吸引了上千人參加，并于去年人數(shù)還翻了倍。
依據(jù)記錄打漁的歷史的《大船頭的銚子沙丁魚(yú)故事 》（侖書(shū)房），這片地方的漁業(yè)是從江戶(hù)初期開(kāi)始的。昭和初期這片地方的打漁大豐收，一直到現(xiàn)在還為人稱(chēng)道?！吧扯◆~(yú)被過(guò)度捕撈，實(shí)在很為難”，“當(dāng)時(shí)大片大片成群在海面上浮起來(lái)，好像在水上游走一樣的”。
孕育了這極美之味的是營(yíng)養(yǎng)豐富的大海。銚子海域是親潮和黑潮交匯碰撞的極佳漁場(chǎng)。在海水上翻程度國(guó)內(nèi)第一的銚子漁港里面，1600多艘漁船鱗次櫛比，里面的餐飲店也是連成一片。
斑點(diǎn)莎瑙魚(yú)的魚(yú)獲在進(jìn)入平成年間后，在各地都呈現(xiàn)減少的態(tài)勢(shì)，在銚子也是，現(xiàn)在的魚(yú)獲連峰值的1/5都沒(méi)有。但即便是這樣，岸上還是一樣人來(lái)人往，車(chē)站里面宣傳沙丁魚(yú)節(jié)的旗子高高飄揚(yáng)。和沙丁魚(yú)共同走過(guò)的這條街在梅雨季節(jié)也同樣熱鬧異常。
[日文原文]
梅雨の訪れと共に、千葉県の銚子漁港には年間を通じて最も脂が乗ったマイワシがやってくる。旬は6月末から7月半ば。地元では「入梅（にゅうばい）いわし」と呼ぶ。
銚子市水産課に聞くと、江戸後期の文獻(xiàn)でも言及されているという?！搞撟婴扦险l(shuí)もが知っていることばです」と長(zhǎng)谷川政代（まさよ）さん（６１）。銚子駅前で、夫婦で飲食店を営む?！副持肖伪·てい騽儰龋偿撺辘郅嗓伟驻ぶ?jiàn)えます。とろりとした甘さが絶品です」。
自慢の魚(yú)を広めようと、長(zhǎng)谷川さんたちは「銚子うめぇもん研究會(huì)」を立ち上げ、４年前に「入梅いわし祭」を始めた。6月と7月に限って、刺身に天ぷら、漬け丼、つみれ汁とイワシを存分に堪能してもらう試みだ。參加しているのは６店舗だが、當(dāng)初１千人だった客足が昨年は２番に伸びた。
漁の歴史を記した『大船頭の銚子イワシ話』（崙＜ろん＞書(shū)房）によれば、漁の始まりは江戸初期。昭和の初めの大豊漁ぶりは今に語(yǔ)り継がれる?！弗ぅ铳筏·欷工评Г盲俊埂复笕氦呛Ｃ妞·悉?、水の上を歩ける様だった」。
極上の味を生むのは栄養(yǎng)たっぷりの海。銚子沖は親潮と黒潮がぶつかる絶好の漁場(chǎng)だ。國(guó)內(nèi)隨一の水揚(yáng)げを誇る銚子漁港には１６００隻もの船が所狹しと並ぶ、飲食店が軒を連ねる。
マイワシの漁獲は平成に入って各地で落ち込み、銚子でも最盛期の5分の１に満たない。それでも岸を人々が行き交い、駅には祭りを告げるのぼりがはためく。イワシと共に歳月を重ねた街は梅雨時(shí)も賑わう。
[英文譯文]
The "Tsuyu" rainy season spells the arrival of "Maiwashi" sardines at the peak of their fatty lusciousness at the Choshi fishing port in Chiba Prefecture.
The fish are in season from mid-June through mid-July, and go by the local name of "Nyubai iwashi" (start of tsuyu sardine).
The term can be traced back to a late Edo Period(1603-1867) document, according to the city's fisheries department.
"Around here, everybody knows nyubai iwashi," said Hasegawa?Masayo, 61, who runs an eatery with her husband in front of Choshi Station. "When you peel the thin skin off the fish's back, you see a layer of white fat that's about 3 millimeters thick. Its melt-in-your-mouth sweetness is absolutely heavenly."
To promote the treasured local treat, Hasegawa formed 'Choshi Umemon Kenkyukai' (group to study Choshi's delicacies). The group started organizing an annual event called "Nyubai Iwashi Matusri" four years ago that is held from June throght July.
It invites the public to savor sardines as sashimi and tempura, "Zuke don" (rice bowl topped with soy marinated sardines) and "tsumire jiru" (soup with balls of minced sardines).
With six local restaurants participating, the event attracted about 1,000 visitors in the first year, and double that number last year.
According to "Dai-sendo no Choshi Iwashi Banashi" (Great boatman's tales of sardines), a book on the hitory of sardine fishing by Ron Shobo, the industry took off in the early Edo Period.
The book mentions the legendary bumper hauls in the early Showa Era (1926-1989), when fishermen lamented the glut and "massive schools of sardines made it appear that people could walk on water."
The fish's exquisite taste comes from the nutruent-rich waters off Choshi. The Oyashio and Kuroshio currents converge there, reating a perfect fishing ground.
Some 1,600 fishing vessels crowd the Choshi port, which leads the nation in fishery hauls. The port's immediate vicinity is packed with rows of eateries and drinking establishments.
Sardine catches started declining all over Japan in the early Heisei Era (1989-2019). Even Choshi's level today is less than one-fifth of its peak years.
Still, the port bustled with people when I visited, and the train station was festooned with banners proclaiming the coming festival.
The town of sardines is vibrant even in this dreary rainy season.
