時(shí)尚偶像
阿基坦的埃莉諾
阿基坦的埃莉諾（公元1124年-1204年），是中世紀(jì)最重要最著名的人物之一，她對(duì)當(dāng)時(shí)的文化生活有非同一般的影響。
她出生于阿基坦公國(guó)政權(quán)家庭，一個(gè)覆蓋整個(gè)法蘭西西南部的大省，這位在歐洲有教養(yǎng)，精通世故以及最合適的繼承人，對(duì)生活充滿(mǎn)異乎尋常的熱情。
在15歲時(shí)她嫁給了即將上位的法國(guó)國(guó)王路易七世，并隨之搬到巴黎。
習(xí)慣奢華與光彩的埃莉諾，發(fā)現(xiàn)這個(gè)城市陰郁灰黯。
她將新時(shí)尚，新面料以及新禮儀從更精練的南方引進(jìn)了過(guò)來(lái)。
阿基坦的貴族在時(shí)尚意識(shí)上向來(lái)是有聲望的，這位新女王帶來(lái)的珠寶，眼線還有胭脂震驚了路易公爵。
編年史史記錄者Bernard of Clairvaux圣伯爾納鐸評(píng)論她的長(zhǎng)袍是“未加修飾的滿(mǎn)載黃金，白銀與寶石“。（抱怨她赤裸裸的奢華哈）
據(jù)說(shuō)她的身高與美貌，在進(jìn)入老年依舊為實(shí)際上的大多數(shù)人所著迷。
潮流設(shè)定
在她的影響下，女性服裝制作變得越來(lái)越精細(xì)。
bliaut布里奧特（昨天提到的），一種長(zhǎng)款拖地袍，成為新潮流。
在埃莉諾統(tǒng)治時(shí)期，這款長(zhǎng)袍變得與身體越來(lái)越貼合，這種貼合一直下沿到臀部，配以裝飾腰帶穿著。
上身側(cè)邊，自腋下打開(kāi)到臀部，附上絲帶，可以幫助收緊面料以貼合身體。
裙子是寬剪裁，陷在輕柔的皺褶里，一直垂到腳邊。
這顯示出當(dāng)時(shí)大量使用面料的特點(diǎn)。
來(lái)自中東的絲綢在歐洲各地都能找到，并被皇室所廣泛使用。
在這組以藍(lán)色，灰色，勃艮第紫紅和大地色的色系中，絲綢是以昂貴金屬線作重度刺繡與高度裝飾的。
奢華的服裝惹惱了教會(huì)神父：Bernard of Clairvaux圣伯爾納鐸抱怨宮廷的女士們“ 拖在她們身后的珍貴材料制造了一堆灰塵”。
而bliaut布里奧特也引起人們的注意，它們自肩膀收緊到肘部，之后延伸出巨大的袖口，長(zhǎng)度一直拖到地上。
袖子便以打結(jié)處理好縮短長(zhǎng)度，便于人們穿著。
廣泛影響
一位強(qiáng)大的女性，埃莉諾在1147年陪伴丈夫十字軍第二次戰(zhàn)役（1145年-1149年），前往君士坦丁堡（現(xiàn)在的伊斯坦布爾）和耶路撒冷。
她隨身帶了一柜子最精美的衣物，這令她看起來(lái)像一個(gè)精煉的普羅旺斯皇后，而不是法蘭克鄉(xiāng)下人。（可想當(dāng)時(shí)的路易七世同學(xué)取了這么位白富美鴨梨也素狠大）。
她留下一道瀟灑的剪影。
希臘記錄者Niketas Choniates評(píng)價(jià)埃莉諾風(fēng)格直指拜占庭：
"甚至女性都在十字軍之列，像男人一樣颯爽的坐在她們的馬鞍上，
而這些人的頭領(lǐng)，是一位穿著豐富特別的人，因?yàn)樗惯吷系慕鹕汤C，被昵稱(chēng)為Chrysopous金腳（金足）。
埃莉諾在1152年與路易解除婚約，并與亨利結(jié)婚成為伴侶。
1154年，亨利成為英格蘭國(guó)王，英格蘭進(jìn)入杰出政權(quán)時(shí)代，藝術(shù)，化妝，羅曼史與詩(shī)歌都在埃莉諾的個(gè)人影響下被引入進(jìn)來(lái)。
無(wú)論她到哪里，埃莉諾都挑戰(zhàn)傳統(tǒng)，發(fā)展個(gè)性和精煉文化，將中世紀(jì)塑造成著名的羅曼史與騎士精神時(shí)代。
FASHION ICON
ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE
Eleanor of Aquitaine (c.1124-1204) is one of the most important and well-known figures of the Middle ages, due to her huge influence on the cultural life of the time.
Born into the ruling family of the Duchy of Aquitaine, a large province that covered most of southwest France, this cultured, sophisticated, and most eligible heiress in Europe had an extraordinary zest for life.
At 15 she married the future King Louis VII of France and moved to Paris.
Used to luxury and splendor, Eleanor found the city bleak and gray.
She introduced new fashions, fabrics, and etiquette from the more sophisticated south.
Nobles from Aquitaine had a reputation for being fashion conscious, and the new queen shocked Louis' courtiers with here jewels, kohl, and rouge.
Chronicler Bernard of Clairvaux remarked that her gowns were "not so much adorned as loaded down with gold, silver, and precious stones."
She was said to be tall and extremely beautiful and continued to enchant men across the known world into here old age.
Setting the trend
Under her influence, women's clothing became increasingly elaborate.
The bliaut, a long overgown, was a new trend.
In Eleanor's reign it grew tighter around the bodice, fitting snugly down to the hips, and was worn with a decorative belt or girdle.
The bodice was split down either side from underarm to hip and attached with ribbons, which could be tied to tighten the fabric across the body.
The skirt was cut wide, falling in light folds and pleats down to the feet.
This emphasized the conspicuous use of rich fabrics.
Silk from the Middle East was readily available throughout Europe and used extensively by the royal court.
In a palette of blues, grays, burgundies, and earth tones, the silk was highly embellished and heavily embroidered in costly metallic threads.
The garments' sumptuous flow outraged church fathers: Bernard of Clairvaux complained about the ladies at court who "drag after them trains of precious material that makes a cloud of dust."
Bliaut sleeves also drew attention; they were tight from shoulder to elbow, then flared out into enormous cuffs long enough to drag on the ground.
Sleeves were knotted to shorten them and to make them more manageable.
Impact abroad
A formidable woman, Eleanor accompanied her husband in 1147 on the Second Crusade (1145-1149), traveling to Constantinople (modern Istanbul) and Jerusalem.
She took chests of the finest clothing with her so she might appear as a sophisticated Provencal queen instead of a Frankish rustic.
She cut a dashing figure.
The Greek chronicler Niketas Choniates noted Eleanor's ride into Byzantium:
"...even women traveled in the ranks of the crusaders, boldly sitting astride in their saddles as men do...
At the head of these was one in particular, richly dressed, who because of the gold embroidery on the hem of her dress, was nicknamed Chrysopous [Golden Foot]."
Eleanor was granted an annulment of her marriage to Louis in 1152 and went on to marry Henry of Anjou as a love match.
In 1154 he became King of England into an illustrious court, introducing art, makeup, romance, and poetry under the influence of her glamorous personality.
Wherever she went, Eleanor challenged tradition, developing the style and sophistication, romance, and chivalry for which the medieval period became famous.
--《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》
