????? ??（原文取自格陵蘭航空公司雜志《Suluk》2017年03 期）

When the clock strikes 12 midnight, F?ringehavn is Greenland’s scariest place.

當時鐘敲到午夜12點，F(xiàn)?ringehavn是格陵蘭最可怕的地方

Few people get to visit the abandoned fishing port which is located 60 kilometres south of Nuuk. Many people may not even want to! Nowadays, F?ringehavn resembles something out of a Stephen King horror film with evil spirits that haunt the night. Next in command on the inspection ship Tulugaq, Jens M. Hansen felt his heart in his throat as he walked on his own around the empty buildings with his camera, while the wind howled in the eaves.

很少有人能夠去造訪位于這個努克以南60公里的廢棄的漁港。很多人甚至就是根本不想去！現(xiàn)在，F(xiàn)?ringehavn就像來自史蒂芬金恐怖電影的情景，邪惡的靈魂在黑夜里游蕩。接下來就輪到Tulugaq號巡檢船上的指揮Jens M. Hansen了，當他手拿照相機，獨自行走在自己空曠的建筑物周圍，寒風呼嘯著從屋檐下穿過，他覺得自己的心臟已經(jīng)提到喉嚨里了。

– My colleagues continued on into the fjord system after setting me ashore at Nordafar. I was completely alone. That made a big impression. I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste. But it was also as if the people had had every intention of returning within a short time, says Jens M. Hansen.

——“我的同事們繼續(xù)在海峽里，只把我在Nordafar放到岸上。我現(xiàn)在是徹底的孤家寡人。這真是印象深刻。對于我可能會發(fā)現(xiàn)什么我有那么一點不安；所有的東西都好像是被匆匆遺留在這里了?？墒?，又似乎像是人們曾經(jīng)打算短時間內(nèi)會再回來一樣?！盝ens M. Hansen先生說

Oven-ready socity ?現(xiàn)成的社會

The last permanent residents left F?ringehavn more than 25 years ago. Since then, the ravages of time have attacked the place. Rust, rot and mould are eating the buildings. Surprisingly, much of the original furniture is still intact. Jens M. Hansen ?has documented this with his camera:

F?ringehavn最后的居民離開這里也已經(jīng)是25年前了。自從那時，時光的摧殘侵蝕著這個地方。鐵銹、腐爛、發(fā)霉，正在吞噬這些建筑物。令人驚訝的是，很多的原有家具設備依然保存完好。Jens M. Hansen用他的相機記錄下了這一切。

– Accounting ledgers from as far back as 1958 ?lay out in the open. Industrial machinery stood ready to receive goods and a chair stood out on the quay, so you could enjoy your coffee in the afternoon sun. There was a piano that had collapsed in on itself. There were also the huge factory and refrigeration halls, giving an indication of the work that went on here. And the community centre with a cinema and the superintendent’s house, says Jens M. Hansen and adds:

——“早先1958年的會計賬目公開可見。機械設備已然就緒，卸裝貨物，一把椅子就放置在碼頭邊顯眼處，你只需在下午的陽光下享用著咖啡。一架倒塌的鋼琴。一間大型工廠以及幾個冷藏庫，提示著這里曾經(jīng)進行過生產(chǎn)。還有，一個有影院有當?shù)亻L官的房子構(gòu)成的社區(qū)中心，”Jens M. Hansen接著說：

? ? ?【上圖】It makes you think of the ruined castle in the James Bond film，Skyfall，but it is the abandoned main building in F?ringehavn. 這也許讓你想起詹姆斯邦德電影《大破天幕殺機》中的城堡廢墟，其實，這是在F?ringehavn被遺棄的F?ringehavn的主要建筑。

“I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste” —— Jens M. Hansen

“對于我可能會發(fā)現(xiàn)什么我有那么一點不安；所有的東西都好像是被匆匆遺留在這里了?！?/em>——Jens M. Hansen

History 歷史

F?ringehavn opened in 1937 as an international fishing port. A hospital, a warehouse for salting fish and a radio station were built. Hardly 50 years later, the fish trade stopped. The Danish Faroese company, Nordafar， went bankrupt in 1989.

F?ringehavn在1937年作為國際化漁港而建。城里還建了一所醫(yī)院，一個腌魚儲存?zhèn)}庫以及一個廣播電臺。僅僅50年以后，因為丹麥所屬法羅群島的Nordafar公司在1989年破產(chǎn)倒閉，這里的漁業(yè)貿(mào)易終止了。

The historical accounts of the place are many. It is particularly fascinating to read of earlier times and what it felt like to be left behind when the ?winter took hold of the country and the regular personnel left.

這個地方的歷史故事有很多。研究早先的時候，去體會一下當時嚴寒的冬季里，人們陸續(xù)離開，被落在后面的感覺，這真是有特別吸引力的事情。

For many years, it was caretaker Egon J?rgensen’s duty to take the ?winter watch? together with his wife. In an article in the newspaper Gr?nlandsposten (published in May 1960) he told of the strange job:

很多年里，負責冬季看管是留守人Egon J?rgensen和他妻子的職責。在1960年五月出版的《格陵蘭郵報》（Gr?nlandsposten）的一篇文章上，他談到了這個奇怪的工作：

– On a purely human level, I am most comfortable when it is just the two of us. We earn our money in the summer, but we like it, when the last people leave, because then we have the peace and quiet of the winter. In the summer, there is so much going on here, he told Gr?nlandsposten.

——按照純粹人類的標準，當這里只有我們兩個人的時候我覺得最舒服了。我們在夏天賺自己的錢，最后的人離開了，但我們喜歡這樣，因為這樣我們擁有平和清凈的冬季了。在夏天，這里會發(fā)生很多事情。他對《格陵蘭郵報》講述說。

However, according to Egon J?rgensen, not everyone could handle it: – The first person I shared the winter watch with, could not handle it. It was too lonely for him and he became depressed. ?

然而，按照Egon S?rensen的說法，不是所有的人都能應對得了：——第一個跟我一起做冬季看管的人，就不能應對。對他來說這里太孤單了，他變得很郁悶。

? 【上圖】The chair is set out for a cup of afternoon coffee in the sun. Tulugaq can be glimpsed out on the fjord. ? 這把椅子，為陽光下下午的咖啡而設。坐在這里，可以一睹海灣外Tulugaq鳥在飛翔。

? ?【上圖】All the windows were shattered apart from one, which I found after looking for two hours, says Jens M. Hansen. 所有的窗戶都破了，只有一個仍然完好，我找了兩個小時才發(fā)現(xiàn)。Jens M. Hansen說。

? 【上2圖】An entire society with warehouse, cinema and railway was built up – and abandoned ?over night?. 一個完整的社區(qū)，有影院，有倉庫，鐵路也建成了—— 一夜之間就被丟棄了。