#每天讀一點服裝史# TRENDS IN TUNICS

TRENDS IN TUNICS

The Bayeux Tapestry (actually an embroidery) documenting the Norman invasion of England in 1066 illustrates the fashion of the time: the tunic, shaped like a "T" with insertions for fullness.

It was the basic clothing for Saxons and Normans, but the trend for wearing short tunics was relatively new

-- one of many continental fashions that King Edward the Confessor introduced when he came to the English throne in 1042 after exile at the Court of Normandy.

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Most men wore two tunics: a linen undergarment covered by an over-tunic.

The under-tunic was sometimes longer, so that the bottom of it peeped out below the hem of the over-tunic.

Pulled on over the head, tunics had a slit at the front of the neck, bordered by a band or collar, often in a contrasting color.

A belt was worn, sitting at the waist or low on the hips, and could be used to tuck up extra length.

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Although tunics were ubiquitous, the quality of the cloth reflected the wealth of the wearer.

The aristocracy, often shown in the tapestry as pointing and giving orders, wore sumptuous silk tunics with gold embroidery imported from the East.

The bright colors showed off expensive dyes.

Much simpler, coarse-cloth tunics with close-fitting leggings were worn by laborers.

The colors available to the ordinary people were shades of natural gray and brown, and greens and blues from plants.

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長袍趨勢

貝葉掛毯(實際上它是一副刺繡品),記錄了1066年諾曼人入侵英格蘭時期的潮流風(fēng)格:“T"字型包裹長袍。

它是撒克遜人與諾曼人時期的基本款式,但穿短袍在當(dāng)時是新的趨勢

-- 當(dāng)時眾多歐陸潮流風(fēng)格之一,是被人稱作懺悔者皇帝的愛德華在諾曼底流放之后于1042年回到英格蘭繼承王位。

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大多數(shù)男性穿件袍子:一件亞麻打底式袍子外罩一件拖地袍。

打底袍子有時候比罩衫更長,所以你會看到下擺從罩衫底部露出來。

從頭部開始看,袍子在正面領(lǐng)口處有一條狹長的切口,由包邊或者領(lǐng)子鑲嵌,通常使用對比色。

需要搭配腰帶,位置在腰部或者低一些到臀部位置,它能夠幫助收緊袍子額外的長度。

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雖然袍子無處不在,但布料的質(zhì)量仍然反反映處穿著者的財富。

掛毯展示了貴族經(jīng)常發(fā)號施令,他們穿著從東方進(jìn)口帶黃金刺繡的豪華絲綢長袍。

明亮顏色展示了昂貴染料。

更簡單的,粗布袍子搭配緊身褲,是勞動者的日常服飾。

普通人可以用到的顏色是天然灰與棕,以及來自植物的綠與藍(lán)色。

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