#每天讀一點(diǎn)服裝史# SHORT TUNIC

SHORT TUNIC

RECONSTRUCTION

Typically worn in the Saxon era, this short ungored (without panel inserts) tunic has been re-created in gray lozenge-twill wool by reconstruction dressmaker Sarah Thursfield.

Short tunics were worn by young men and workers from the 3rd or 4th century CE in northern Germany right through to late Saxon times.

Tunics based on rectangles and triangles were the basic unit of clothing across Europe.

They were usually worn with braccas (wool pants), often with leg windings, and leather shoes.

The final appearance of a tunic was a matter of personal preference and style: The wearer arranged the spare width of the fabric over the tied fabric belt, gently pouched or sometimes in the stylish pleats seen in late Saxon illustrations.

Later tunics often had fuller gored skirts.

圖片發(fā)自簡(jiǎn)書App

SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION

The tunic back and front are made from two unshaped rectangles of cloth with added sleeves that taper at wrist.

A fabric belt defines the waist and gathers in the width.

RURAL WEAR

A peasant tends his sheep in a rural idyll on a late Anglo-Saxon vellum.

He wears a simple tunic draped over a fabric belt -- a style and shape that endured for centuries.

Anglo-Saxon Workers


PEPLOS STYLE

Combinations of wrapped dresses and sleeved linen shifts were worn from the Bronze Age (more than 4,000 years ago) and formed the basis of Ancient Greek and Roman women's wardrobes.

An example of this dress style survives from a Danish "bog body" of around 500BCE, and the garments only appear to have gone out of fashion with the Northern European move to Christianity.

The peplos-style dress is simply a large tube of cloth.

The fold at the top controls the length in wear, and two brooches hold it in place at the shoulders.

WARMTH AND PROTECTION

As with the tunic, this garment is managed by the wearer and may be worn with a belt and shortened for practical work.

The dense wool provides good protection and an extra peplos-style outer garment could be added in cold weather.

Wool Peplos Style


DRESSING VENUS

Two attendants dress Venus, drawing here peplos up over a filmy shift in this detail of the birth of Venus from a marble relief on the Ludovisi Throne. C.470-60BCE

Dressing Venus


--《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》


短袍

重現(xiàn)

傳統(tǒng)的撒克遜時(shí)代短款tunic袍子(沒有鑲嵌條),經(jīng)由裁縫師Sarah Thursfield以灰色菱形格斜紋羊毛面料重新制作而復(fù)興了。

自德國(guó)北部公元3,4世紀(jì)到撒克遜晚期,短tunic袍是供年輕男子和工人穿著的服裝。

Tunic是基于長(zhǎng)方形和三角形之上,橫跨歐洲的基本款式。

人們通常穿著它搭配braccas(羊毛褲),綁腿和皮鞋。

最終tunic的整體搭配取決個(gè)人的喜好與風(fēng)格,穿著者會(huì)在面料寬度上留有余量,以織物帶將服裝束好。這樣輕柔的收褶你能看到在撒克遜晚期它成為時(shí)髦。

后期的tunic袍子經(jīng)常連著三角斜裁的裙子。


簡(jiǎn)單構(gòu)建

Tunic袍子的后片和前片是由兩塊未加整形的矩形織物組成,加有在手腕處收細(xì)的袖子。

一條織物帶能控制腰部皺褶的程度。

鄉(xiāng)村著裝

一位農(nóng)民在安格魯-撒克遜晚期的鄉(xiāng)村田園中,照顧著他的羊。

他穿著一件以織物帶收褶的簡(jiǎn)單袍子 -- 這是一種持續(xù)了幾個(gè)世紀(jì)的著裝風(fēng)格和造型。

撒克遜時(shí)代抱羊的農(nóng)民


PEPLOS風(fēng)格

混合了包裹連身衣與亞麻袖的直筒袍,在4000多年以前的青銅器時(shí)代就開始穿著了。它成為古埃及和羅馬婦女衣櫥中的基本款。

有一件大約公元前500年在丹麥“木乃伊”身上幸存下來的直筒袍,而服裝似乎已經(jīng)脫離了北歐的風(fēng)格而轉(zhuǎn)向基督教風(fēng)格。(當(dāng)時(shí)傳教士們正式將基督教義傳到中歐與北歐的時(shí)候)。

Peplos風(fēng)格只是一塊極大的布料。

頂部的皺褶控制著服裝的長(zhǎng)度,兩枚胸針將其固定在肩膀上。

溫暖與保護(hù)

與tunic袍子一樣,這款服裝由穿著者自己管理造型,可以搭配腰帶,也可以縮短長(zhǎng)度以便日常工作。

緊密的羊毛提供良好的溫暖與保護(hù),在寒冷的天氣可以額外增加一件peplos款式的外衣。

維納斯更衣

公元前60年,路德維希大理石浮雕顯示(Ludovisi Throne),兩位侍女正在服侍維納斯更衣,而peplos在他們手中被提起,這是維納斯誕生的一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)。

維納斯更衣
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