#每天讀一點服裝史#?THE ANCIENT WORLD

THE ?ANCIENT WORLD

Prehistory - 600CE

" We live not according to reason, but according to fashion."

-- Seneca, Roman Philosopher, 1st century CE

the ancient world is a jigsaw of images and objects that historians are trying to piece together.

Paintings, sculpture, clues as to how people lived and dressed.

Many of the early civilizations reached impressive levels of developments.

Sophisticated technologies and craft skills coexisted in different corners of the world, as the still do today, and influenced each other as cultures met through war, exploration, and commercial exchange.

Clothing and accessories - including protective armor and talismanic jewelry - were often produced to extremely high standards.

Fine linen was woven on the banks of the Nile in Egypt; the Greeks and Romans created fantastic wool tapestries; and the Etruscans crafted ornate, tooled metalwork.

Starting points

Many shapes styles in dress date back thousands of years, having necessity, function, and the materials available as theirstarting points.

For example, connecting two pieces of material to form a garment may once have meant no more than using a simple fastening such crude beginnings wonderful pieces of embroidery evolved, providing decoration and reinforcement at the same time.

Embroidery on traditional dress from, say, eastern Europe or southwest China is often concentrated around the neck, hem, shoulders, and wrist - the areas that are most visible and most subject to wear and tear.

Cycle of fashion

If the clothes people wore in the distant past often look remarkably modern and familiar, this is because of the way styles are continually revived and reinterpreted through cycles of history and waves of fashion.

Modern designers have borrowed again and again from the styles - and style icons - of the past.

Numerous examples can be listed of fashions that have had their day and gone, only to reappear with a new spin:

The elegant draperies of classical Greek and Roman goddesses;

Ancient Egypt's massive jewelry and the kohl-eyed, black-bobbed "Cleopatra look";

Chinese and Japanese silks and sashes;

exotic Middle Eastern asymmetry and A-line cut garments;

geometric, antrropomorphic patterns from pre-Columbian civilizations.

From couture house to main-street store, the modern fashion world owes much to the past.


--《The definitive history of costume and style》


遠(yuǎn)古 - 公元600年

遠(yuǎn)古世界圖像一直是歷史學(xué)家們想要串聯(lián)的起來的拼圖。

繪畫,雕塑,細(xì)節(jié)都透露著當(dāng)時人們起居與穿衣的線索。

許多古老文明的發(fā)展至今任然有著令人嘆為觀止的高度。

精密的技術(shù)與手工技巧在世界的各個角落共同發(fā)展,直到今天,這些影響仍舊像文化一樣通過戰(zhàn)爭,探索和全球商業(yè)互相兌換。

服飾與配件 - 包括護(hù)身盔甲與辟邪首飾 - 經(jīng)常需要非常高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的制作工藝。

細(xì)麻布在埃及尼羅河流域被紡織出來;希臘與羅馬人創(chuàng)造了一種非常華美的羊毛掛毯;而伊特魯里亞人則制作美妙絕倫的壓花金屬制品。

起始點

服飾潮流往前追溯幾千年,必要性,功能性與可用面料是人們一開始的追求目標(biāo)。

例如,將兩塊面料拼接在一起做一件長袍可能不如拿一塊刺繡工藝的原始面料固定在身上打個結(jié),同時提供裝飾與加固的作用。

刺繡服飾傳統(tǒng)來自東歐或中國西北地區(qū),這些地區(qū)經(jīng)常用刺繡來制作頸部,下擺,肩部和腕部裝飾 - 而這些區(qū)域通常是視覺中心,也是最容易磨損的區(qū)域。

潮流的循環(huán)

如果在遙遠(yuǎn)過去的人們,著裝看起來摩登并且似曾相識,那是因為款式總是會被重新拿來定義,而歷史的潮流又總是在不斷循環(huán)與周期性更新的。

現(xiàn)代設(shè)計師們會一次又一次將過去的款式,過去的潮流人物拿來重新定義。

數(shù)不清的例子見證了時尚的到來和離開,直到新的一輪周期出現(xiàn):

古希臘與羅馬女神的優(yōu)雅下垂長袍;

古埃及的大量珠寶,科爾黑眼線,還有克利奧帕特拉的黑色波波頭;

中國與日本的絲綢與腰帶;

中東地區(qū)不對稱與斜裁服飾;

前哥倫比亞文明的幾何與擬人化圖騰。

無論精品店還是主要大街的百貨公司,時尚都非常尊重過去。

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