Day 16 Protein?mania:?the?rich?world’s?new?diet?obsession

衛(wèi)報(bào)文章

蛋白質(zhì)狂潮:富人世界新近的飲食執(zhí)念

Protein 蛋白質(zhì)

Mania. n.狂熱/'me?n??/

obsession /?b'se?(?)n/ n. 困擾

Are you getting enough protein? The question provides its own answer: if you are worrying about the amount of protein in your diet, then you are almost certainly eating more than enough.

你攝入足夠的蛋白質(zhì)了嗎?這個(gè)問(wèn)題本身就提供了它的答案:如果你正在擔(dān)憂你的飲食中蛋白質(zhì)的含量,那么你基本上肯定是吃得太多了。

You merely need to visit a western supermarket today to see that many people regard protein as some kind of universal elixir – one food companies are profitably adding to anything they can. “When the Box Says ‘Protein’, Shoppers Say ‘I’ll take it’” was the headline of a 2013 article in the Wall Street Journal.

Universal a.廣泛的,普遍的

elixir /?'l?ks?/ n.不老長(zhǎng)壽藥

今天,你只要去任何一家西方國(guó)家的超市,就會(huì)看到許多人視蛋白質(zhì)為某種包治百病的靈丹妙藥——食品公司出于利潤(rùn)的考慮,會(huì)將這種靈丹妙藥加入所有他們能加入的產(chǎn)品中?!吨灰b盒上出現(xiàn)“蛋白質(zhì)”,顧客就會(huì)說(shuō)“我買”》是 2013 年《華爾街日?qǐng)?bào)》上的一個(gè)文章標(biāo)題。

The intensity of our protein obsession can only be understood as part of a wider series of diet battles that go back half a century. If we now thirst for protein as if it were water, it may be because the other two macronutrients – fats and carbohydrates – have each in turn been made to seem toxic in the public mind.

intensity n.強(qiáng)烈,劇烈

macro-巨大的

carbon 碳

hydrate 水合物

Toxic 有毒的

人們對(duì)于蛋白質(zhì)的癡迷之強(qiáng)烈,只能被理解為是半個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái),一系列更為廣泛的飲食習(xí)慣戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)的一部分。如果現(xiàn)在我們渴望蛋白質(zhì)的程度,就仿佛它是水一樣,那可能是因?yàn)槠渌麅纱笾饕獱I(yíng)養(yǎng)素——脂肪和碳水化合物——已經(jīng)在公眾的腦海中,先后被渲染成了似乎有毒的形象。

In the current nutrition wars, protein has emerged as the last macronutrient left standing. David L Katz, an American doctor and public health scholar who is the director of the Yale-Griffin Prevention Research Center said: “First they told us to cut fat. But instead of wholegrains and lentils, we ate low-fat junk food.” Then food marketers heard the message about cutting carbs and sold us protein-enriched junk foods instead.

carbs碳水化合物

在當(dāng)前的營(yíng)養(yǎng)戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)中,蛋白質(zhì)已然成為了最后一個(gè)“屹立不倒”的主要營(yíng)養(yǎng)素。美國(guó)醫(yī)生、公共健康學(xué)者、耶魯-格里芬疾病預(yù)防研究中心主任大衛(wèi)·L·凱茲說(shuō):“最開始他們告訴我們要減少脂肪攝入,然而我們不吃全谷物食品和小扁豆,卻吃上了低脂肪含量的垃圾食品。”之后,食品公司們聽說(shuō)了要減少碳水?dāng)z入量的消息,于是取而代之,又開始向我們出售富含蛋白質(zhì)的垃圾食品。

For decades now, there has been a tendency to think about what we eat and drink in terms of nutrients, rather than real whole ingredients in all their complexity. A combination of diet fads and clever marketing has got us here. It doesn’t matter whether we fixate on “l(fā)ow fat” or “l(fā)ow carbs” or “high protein” – we are making the same old mistakes about nutrition in a new form.

近幾十年來(lái),人們傾向于從營(yíng)養(yǎng)素的角度,而不是從食物實(shí)際整體所含成分之復(fù)雜的角度來(lái)考慮我們的飲食。正是各類飲食習(xí)慣的風(fēng)潮以及精明的市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷策略的結(jié)合使我們走到今天這般田地。無(wú)論我們是沉迷于“低脂”或者“低碳水”又或者“高蛋白”的概念——我們其實(shí)只是在以新的形式重復(fù)相同而老套的營(yíng)養(yǎng)學(xué)錯(cuò)誤。

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