#每天讀一點(diǎn)服裝史# DEMURE DAY DRESSES

1837 - 1855

DEMURE DAY DRESSES

From the late 1830s dresses expanded slowly but surely to ever wider proportions, enveloping the legs and ankles completely.


1837

Lower shoulder lines and tighter sleeves restricted the range of upper body movement, as did square shawls folded diagonally and draped around shoulders.


1838

Corsets, and often bodices, were stiffened with whalebone and had a long front bust pushing down on the embonpoint (plumpness of the stomach), creating a narrow waist.

Full skirts, organ-pleated into the waist, were supported on multiple layers of petticoats, at least one of which was stiffened with crin, (from the French for horsehair).


1837

Dress skirts began to feature tiers and, by the early 1850s, were embellished with trimmings.

Accessories such as beadwork bags, purses, and parasols were pretty and feminine.


1850 GODEY WEDDING DRESS

CHILDREN’S WEAR

Girls at this time were dressed as miniature versions of their mothers, with full dresses worn over two or more layers of petticoats to create a bell-shaped skirt.

Young girls’ skirts were shorter, however, and revealed pantalettes (linen or cotton leggings tied above the knee), which were edged with lace or pretty embroidery.

When outdoors, these light-colored dresses were covered with darker overcoats made from heavier fabrics.

Bonnets and gloves were also worn.

Young boys also wore dresses until they were “breeched” (first dressed in breeches or trousers), which was usually when they were between four and eight years old.


1837 - 1855

端莊連衣裙

十九世紀(jì)30年代末期裙展逐漸擴(kuò)大到一定程度,完全包住了腿和腳踝。


1837-39

更低的肩線與更緊的袖子限制了上半身的活動(dòng)范圍,如同一塊正方披肩對(duì)折披圍在肩膀上一樣。

緊身胸衣,使用魚骨加強(qiáng)支撐,并加長(zhǎng)了前胸以下的范圍(使豐滿腹部)被一并收緊,創(chuàng)造出狹窄的腰圍。


全身裙,褶皺被收進(jìn)腰里,并靠多層襯裙支撐,其中至少有一層法國(guó)馬毛里襯。


1839

裙身開始有層次特征,到了十九世紀(jì)50年代早期,開始加上裝飾飾邊。

配飾例如珠寶袋,錢包以及遮陽傘等都非常漂亮與女性化。


1850 PRINCESS WEDDING DRESS

兒童服裝

這個(gè)時(shí)期女孩們的穿著就如同她們母親的縮小版本,全身裙再加上至少兩層以上的內(nèi)襯,形成了鐘型裙式樣。

然而小女童的裙子則較短,并且露出以蕾絲或精美刺繡做裝飾的裙擺,裙擺下使亞麻或棉制的綁腿。戶外時(shí),淺色的裙子就被厚重面料的神色外套覆蓋了。

帽子與手套都是要佩戴的。

小男童也穿著連衣裙,里面穿著馬褲或休閑褲,通常在四到八歲會(huì)這么穿著。


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