FASHION ICON
MARIE - ANTOINETTE
When the Austrian-born Marie-Antoinette (1755-1793) arrived in France in 1770, she was handed over to the the Bourbon court and stripped naked.
Relinquishing her Austrian nationality along with her clothes, she was dressed in a gleaming ceremonial gown.
She was to marry the dauphin, Louis Auguste, the future King Louis XVI of France, and give the kingdom an heir.
At first she played the dutiful wife, but struggled to fit in with Versailles’ rigid idea of royal glamour:
vast pannier skirts (undergarments worn wide at the sides, but flat at the front and rear) and whalebone corsets.
Friendless, childless, and viewed with suspicion by a hostile French court, she turned to costume as a strategy for survival and to bolster her prestige.
One disapproving aristocrat remarked that she had staged a “veritable revolution in fashion.”
Extravagance and experimentation
Marie-Antoinette confounded expectations of a royal consort.
In a scandalous move, she refused to wear the posture-enhancing corset.
After learning to ride, she abandoned the long, flowing skirts of a sidesaddle rider and wore male breeches and a riding coat, drawing swift condemnation.
Her mother warned: “ If you are riding like a man, dressed as a man… I have to tell you that I find it dangerous as well as bad for bearing children…”
In 1774, when her husband Louis XVI was crowned King of France, all eyes were on Marie-Antoinette and her new “pouf” hairstyle.
Heavily powdered hair was teased high above the forehead and topped with a cluster of white ostrich feathers.
Simplicity and star quality
By the mid-to late 1780s Marie-Antoinette had changed style completely.
She offended her French compatriots by adopting Anglophile fashions, wearing much simpler, lighter dresses.
As her look softened, she outraged courtiers by wearing thin, muslin chemises a la Reine loosely belted at the waist.
The peasant-girl look was topped with a broad straw hat, tilted at every imaginable angle.
It was a trend condemned by French society but soon copied.
時尚典范
瑪麗 安東尼特
當奧地利出生的瑪麗 安東尼特（1755-1793）在1770年抵達法國時，她赤條條地被移送到波旁家族。
隨同她的奧地利國籍一起，她穿著的閃閃發(fā)光的禮服也一并放棄了。
她要與王太子路易斯奧古斯特結(jié)婚，未來法國國王路易十六，王位的繼承人。
一開始她扮演順從的妻子，努力迎合凡爾賽宮死板的皇家禮儀：
寬大的籃筐裙（兩側(cè)有寬大的內(nèi)襯，但前后齊平）與魚骨胸衣。
沒有朋友，沒有子女，被充滿敵意的法國宮廷監(jiān)視懷疑，她轉(zhuǎn)而將服飾作為生存的策略并以此提高她的聲望。
一位不贊同她的貴族評論瑪麗上演的是“名副其實的革命”。
奢侈實驗
瑪麗安東尼特混淆了皇室對配偶的期待。
在一系列誹謗運動中，她拒絕再穿著死板江華的束身衣。
學(xué)習(xí)騎車之后，她放棄了需要橫坐馬鞍的長而流暢的裙子，穿著男式馬褲與騎馬外套，而迅速招來譴責(zé)。
她的母親警告她：“如果你像男人一樣騎馬，穿得像一個男人，我不得不告訴你我能預(yù)見到的危險以及對孩子的傷害?！?/p>
1774年，當她的丈夫路易十六加冕成為法國國王，所有的眼睛都注視在瑪麗安東尼特和她新派的發(fā)型上。
大量粉沙狀的頭發(fā)在額頭前高高束起，頂著一簇白色鴕鳥羽毛。
簡單品質(zhì)
十八世紀80年代中后期，瑪麗安東尼特完全改變了風(fēng)格。
她對她的國人開始追求Anglophile親英派的時尚而感到生氣，她的穿著更簡單更輕便了。
當她穿著更柔和，對于國人仍舊喜歡細窄，麻布的拉雷恩無腰身裙而感到憤怒。
務(wù)農(nóng)女孩造型是頭上戴一頂寬大的草帽，任意傾斜想要的角度。
這是法國社會聲討的傾向，并且很快就被復(fù)制了。
