原文我會放在譯文后面，英語好的強烈建議直接去看原文
這樣我還能少丟點兒人 -_-#
原文地址：http://www.chiangmaitouristguide.com/07-2008/feature1.html
更多內(nèi)容，歡迎關(guān)注豆列
「清邁拾遺」：http://www.douban.com/people/gaobiedeying/doulists/all
原文作者：Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
配圖：子文東
1296年，孟萊王建立清邁作為蘭納王國的首府。為了保護(hù)這座新城，他下令圍繞它建造城墻與護(hù)城河。城市的布局基于當(dāng)時的軍事與天象理論，在同（素可泰的）蘭甘亨王和（帕夭的）安孟王討論后，城墻被認(rèn)定應(yīng)當(dāng)布置為900x1000 wah(1800x2000米）的矩形，環(huán)繞它的護(hù)城河應(yīng)寬18米。工程于1296年4月12日開始，以90000人耗時4個月才完成。建成后，每側(cè)城墻都配有一道城門，并以其位置或者在城市生活中的意義命名。Abha Bhamorabutr在他的書《清邁故事》里，向我們講述了一個關(guān)于城門的趣史。
北門曾被稱為"Hua Vieng" 門，意為進(jìn)入城市的第一道門。在泰語中，"Hua"為頭，"Vieng"在泰北地區(qū)指進(jìn)行防御處。公元1400年左右，這一名字被改為"Chang Puek"，即"白象門"。是清邁歷史上的兩次事件促成了這次更名。第一件事發(fā)生于1386年，清邁的第八位統(tǒng)治者，也就是將佛法由錫蘭引入蘭納地區(qū)的根納王，收到了來自于哈里奔猜王國高僧 Phra Maha Sumana Thera＊所贈的佛骨。國王想找一處神圣的地方來收藏它們。為選定最吉利的地點，他將佛骨放在一匹白象背上的象轎中，并將它放生。跟隨這匹白象，國王與高僧走出了Hua Vieng門又徒步爬上素貼山，直到它止步于山上某處。此處后來便成為了今天素貼山雙龍寺的所在地。
第二件事發(fā)生于大約15年后。 根納王之子Saen Muang Ma王帶領(lǐng)他的軍隊離開清邁遠(yuǎn)征素可泰，去討伐素可泰國王。當(dāng)他們抵達(dá)素可泰城郊時，決定休息一夜，在第二天早晨再發(fā)動進(jìn)攻。然而，當(dāng)他們在城外扎營，準(zhǔn)備明早攻城時，遭到了素可泰軍的重創(chuàng)。對疲憊的清邁軍而言，這場先發(fā)制人的襲擊完全在預(yù)料之外，以至他們很快就筋疲力竭，潰不成軍。Saen Muang Ma王靠著兩位忠仆Obb和Yeraka的勇敢與毅力，才帶著僅剩的一條命從這場慘敗中逃走。在帶著國王逃出營地后，由于路途艱險，他們便輪流背負(fù)著他直到250公里之遙的清邁。安全的返回讓國王非常感激，他以財物重賞他的仆人，并以"Khun Chang Sai（左象）"與"Khun Chang Kava（右象）"為名賜予他們貴族身份。因為左右象均住在Chieng Chom，此地隨后建起了"白色雙象"以示榮耀。雙象起初曾放置在通往"Hua Vieng"門的路兩側(cè)，自那時起，城門的名字就改成了"白象門"。
南門曾被稱為"Tai Vieng Gate"，意為最后一道城門。作為Abha Bhamorabutr 城史中的遺漏問題，他并沒有解釋從何時起因為何事，南門的名字改成了今天的"清邁門"。
東門曾因為附近的村莊，被稱為"Chiang Ruak"門，后來又更名為"內(nèi)Tha Pae"門。19世紀(jì)末，在Wat San Fang寺附近，城外東堤處的"外Tha Pae"門被拆除后，東門的名字便被簡稱為"Tha Pae"門了。"Tha"在泰語中意為"港"，"Pae"意為水上住宅。將這兩個詞合在一起，"Tha Pae"是指一座停滿水上住宅的港口。該港口當(dāng)年就在美萍河上如今的Nawarat橋附近。水上住宅曾經(jīng)是從事是河上貿(mào)易者們的交易場所和家。
西門一直被稱為"Suan Dok Gate"。"Suan"意為花園或公園，"Dok"是"Dok Mai"的簡稱，泰語花之意。離此門不遠(yuǎn)，就在城墻外邊，曾有一座皇家花園，滿是芬芳繽紛的鮮花以及水質(zhì)清澈的池塘。國王和蘭納王國的權(quán)貴會與他們的親人帶著皇室隨從去那里休息娛樂，有時在池中沐浴。
1371年，根納王獻(xiàn)出了花園的一部分給高僧Phra Maha Sumana用做佛殿，后來Wat Suan Dok寺就建在這里。
在孟萊王筑就圍繞清邁的城墻與城門大約100年后，Saen Muang Ma王增加了第五道門。他的妻子Phra Rajathevee并不希望住在城內(nèi)，所以她在城西南角外的Suan Ra區(qū)造了一座宮殿。Phra Rajathevee曾經(jīng)幾乎每天通過這道"Suan Ra"門去監(jiān)督柴迪隆寺佛塔的建造。隨后歷史變遷，由于正對這道門的區(qū)域用途改變，城門的名字便從"Suan Ra"改為它今天的名字"Suan Prung"。Abha Bhamorabutr 解釋說，泰語中"Suan"有雙重含義。作為名詞是花園或公園，用做動詞時則指對抗的動作。例如以手持矛插入他人體內(nèi)。
"Prung"源自"Pung"一詞，在泰北意為肚子或腹部。在清邁歷史的這段時期，"Suan Prung門"曾是忤逆者被處決之地，處決的方式是將囚犯捆綁示眾，用矛刺入他們的腹部，再由他們這樣死掉。
第六道門，"Chiang Moi"門，是由1447－1487年統(tǒng)治清邁的Tilokrat **王所建。他認(rèn)為從他的皇宮到美萍河上的港口路途實在太遠(yuǎn)，所以為縮短距離，他切斷了城墻，建了一道新門。這道門起初曾因它在城中所處的區(qū)域被稱為"Sri Poom門"。不久后名字被改為"Chang Moi門"。"Chang Moi"在泰語中是"睡象"的意思，但是和南門一樣，關(guān)于名字的變更是何時又因為何事而發(fā)生，Abha Bhamorabutr 沒有找到解釋。
直到第二次世界大戰(zhàn)，這六道門都是進(jìn)出城市的唯一通道，也是城市生活的中心，每道門都配有一處市場。它們時刻被守護(hù)，并且只從日出開放到日落。每道門外還都曾有一座跨越護(hù)城河的竹橋，戰(zhàn)爭發(fā)生時，這些橋會被收起，城門也會緊閉。持續(xù)不斷的損壞與重建貫穿了這些城墻與城門的歷史，但即使有時間的侵襲與入侵軍隊的破壞，它們?nèi)匀恍掖妗?801年P(guān)hra Chao Kawila時期，城門還曾重建。但到了20世紀(jì)40年代日軍占領(lǐng)泰國期間，當(dāng)日本人挪走城磚去鋪就一條通往Pai縣的路時，一個時代也因他們而終結(jié)了。除此之外，日本人還拆走了原Nawarat 橋的跨梁用來在這條至今可見的路上另建一座橋***。1966－1969年期間，城門與角墻被再次重建。
700年后，孟萊王當(dāng)初的防御工事還剩四道城門。Tha Pae門與四個角墻曾于1975年重修。盡管城墻幾乎消失了，但是那些曾經(jīng)繁華的城門仍在，經(jīng)由它們的名字，這座城市的歷史記憶依然鮮活。
注：文中內(nèi)容是Brian Hubbard 整理自 Abha Bhamorabutr所著的《The Story of Chieng Mai》。這本書我沒能在清邁圖書館找到，國內(nèi)也沒有翻譯出版，只有一些國外圖書館顯示有收藏。(已發(fā)郵件告知翻譯的事，但沒回音，好像這網(wǎng)站也沒有版權(quán)聲明，我查了作者的名字，只在清邁的一個論壇中有不相干的提及。 所以忍不住先斬后奏了。)
哈里奔猜王國是曾經(jīng)統(tǒng)治清邁地區(qū)的孟族人王國，首府是在南奔，后來被孟萊王所擊敗后，起初遷首府至南邦，隨后國王被殺，徹底由孟萊王統(tǒng)治。Phra Maha Sumana Thera并非哈里奔猜王國高僧，而是來自錫蘭，居于素可泰，由根納王邀請至清邁之前，曾在雨季暫居于南奔。
而且Phra Maha Sumana Thera其實不是這位高僧的名字，而是一個用于高等級僧侶的稱呼，關(guān)于泰國僧侶等級的分類及稱呼方式，可以參見
<Monks’ Ranks and Titles>：http://www.thaibuddhism.net/ranks.htmTilokarat王，也就是那位帶領(lǐng)蘭納王國走向巔峰，掀起阿育陀耶－蘭納之戰(zhàn)的強勢國王。人家果然霸氣，懶得走路就砸城墻。。。
其實此種說法很有爭議，并沒有準(zhǔn)確的證據(jù)證明，日軍的確將這座橋的零件拆除，用于修建Pai縣那座著名的拍照景點"二戰(zhàn)橋"。但從這種說法中可以看出，泰國人對曾經(jīng)被日本控制和我們一樣感到氣憤屈辱，而且城墻被拆掉鋪路的確是事實。
關(guān)于這一點，可以參見
<The Mystery of Tha Pai Bridge>：http://allaboutpai.com/bridge/
用了一天翻譯，又用了一天拍照，才終于完成了這篇。第一次翻譯文章，開始后才發(fā)現(xiàn)竟然比自己寫更難，尤其是憑我這種湊合用的蹩腳英語，好多次都懷疑是費力不討好。但還是覺得必須如此，既然所知道的基本都來自于它，就應(yīng)當(dāng)保留原文的模樣。非常欣賞作者以尋常事物穿起瑣碎歷史的寫法，簡單清晰是最不容易的，有關(guān)泰國的英文游記中不乏這樣的好文章，希望以后我們的中文游記也能多一些類似的吧～ （其實我的意思是：與其抱怨同胞們的素質(zhì)差，只知吃喝玩樂購物，不如一起補一下逼格。）
我會繼續(xù)努力整理，但很快就要回國了，所以歡迎有類似想法的朋友加入進(jìn)來，一同探索這個擁有迷人歷史和狂野自然的國度。
原文：
「The Story of Chieng Mai」
Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
In 1296, King Mengrai established Chiang Mai as the capital of Lanna Kingdom. To protect his new city, he ordered the construction of a perimeter wall and moat. The city layout was based on ancient military and astrological beliefs and, in consultation with King Ramkamhaeng and King Ngum Muang, it was decided that the wall should be laid in a rectangular shape, 900 by 1,000 wah (1,800 x 2,000 metres). The moat surrounding it was to be 18 metres wide. Work commenced on 12thApril 1296 AD and it took 90,000 men 4 months to complete. When it was finished, each wall had one gate and each gate was given a name that related to its location or significance in city life. In his book "The Story of Chieng Mai", Abha Bhamorabutr relates an interesting history of the gates.
The North Gate was called "Hua Vieng Gate" which means the first gate to enter the city. In Thai language "Hua" means head and in northern Thai "Vieng" is a fortified place. Around 1400 AD this name was changed to "Chang Puek", the "White Elephant Gate". Two events in Chiang Mai's history contributed to this change of name. The first occurred in 1386 AD. King Geu-Na, the eighth ruler of Chiang Mai, was the King who introduced Buddhism from Ceylon to Lannathai. Phra Maha Sumana Thera, a priest from Hariphunchai, had presented the King with some Buddha relics and the King wanted to find a holy place to bury them. To determine the most auspicious site, the King had the relics placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant and then set it free. Followed by the King and Phra Sumana, the elephant left the city by the Hua Vieng Gate and walked up Doi Suthep until it came to rest at a spot on the hill that is now the location of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.
The second event happened about 15 years later. King Saen Muang Ma, the son of King Geu-Na, had led his army on an expedition from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai, with the intention of capturing the city kingdom. When they arrived on the outskirts of Sukhothai, it was decided to rest for the night and attack in the morning.However, while the Chiang Mai army was camped outside of Sukhothai preparing itself for the morning attack on the city, they were savagely attacked by the Sukhothai army. This pre-emptive strike caught the tired Chiang Mai army by surprise and they were easily overwhelmed and slaughtered. King Saen Muang Ma only escaped the massacre with his life because of the courage and stamina of his two faithful servants, Obb and Yeraka. They got the King out of the camp and then, because of the rough terrain, took turns to carry him on their shoulders all the way back to Chiang Mai, a distance of some 250 kilometres. Upon his safe return the King was so grateful that he rewarded his servants with money and materials and nominated them to royal ranking as Khun Chang Sai; the left elephant, and Khun Chang Kava; the right elephant. Both Khun Changs lived at Chieng Chom and later at this location the "Two White Elephants" monument was built in their honour.The elephants were originally placed on either side of the road leading to the "Hua Vieng Gate" and the name was then changed to the "White Elephant Gate".
The South Gate was called "Tai Vieng Gate" which means the last gate of the city. At some point in its history, Abha Bhamorabutr doesn't tell us when or why it happened, this became known by its present name of "Chiang Mai Gate".
The East Gate was named "Chiang Ruak Gate" after the nearby village. This changed to "Inner Tha Pae Gate" and then at the end of the 19thcentury, when the "Outer Tha Pae Gate" in the outer earthen embankment near Wat San Fang, was removed, the name was shortened to "Tha Pae Gate". The word "Tha" in Thai means harbour and "Pae" means floating house. Put the two together and you have "Tha Pae"; a harbour full of floating houses. The harbour was on the Mae Ping River near where the Nawarat Bridge now stands. The floating houses were the homescumbusiness premises of the river traders.
The West Gate has always been called "Suan Dok Gate". "Suan" means garden or park and "Dok" is shortened from "Dok Mai"; the Thai word for flower. Not far from this gate, just outside the city walls, there was a royal flower garden full of colourful and fragrant flowers and ponds of clear water. Kings and Rulers of Lannathai would go to the gardens with their families and royal retinue, to relax and enjoy themselves, and occasionally bathe in the ponds. In 1371 AD King Geu-Na dedicated a part of the gardens as a sanctuary for the priest Phra Maha Sumana and it was here that Wat Suan Dok was built.
About 100 years after King Mengrai had completed the walls and gates around Chiang Mai, King Saen Muang Ma added a fifth gate. His wife, Phra Rajathevee didn't want to live inside the city so she had a palace built in the Suan Ra district; an area outside of the southwest corner of the city. Phra Rajathevee used the "Suan Ra" gate almost daily to go to oversee the construction of Chedi Luang. Later in its history, because of a change in the use of the land immediately around the gate, the name was changed from "Suan Ra" to its present name of "Suan Prung". Abha Bhamorabutr explains that in Thai the word "Suan" has two meanings. As a noun "Suan" means garden or park. As a verb "suan" means the action against something, for example to hold a spear in your hand and thrust it into the body of another person.
"Prung" comes from the word "Pung", which in northern Thai means a paunch or belly. At this time in Chiang Mai's history, "Suan Prung Gate" was the place where the execution of rebels was carried out; the manner of execution being to tie the prisoners to a post, thrust a spear into their belly and then leave them to die.
The sixth gate, Chang Moi Gate was built by King Tilokraj who ruled Chiang Mai from 1447-1487 AD. The King considered that it was a long journey from his royal residence to Tha Pae on the Ping River so to shorten the route he had a new gate cut into the wall. This gate was originally called the "Sri Poom Gate" because that was the area of the city in which it was situated. At a later date the name was changed to "Chang Moi Gate". "Chang Moi" in Thai means "sleepy elephant" but, as with the South Gate, Abha Bhamorabutr could find no record of when or why this name-change took place.
Up until the Second World War, the six gates were the only access points into and out of the city and they were focal points of city life; every gate had a market. They were always guarded and were only open from sunrise to sunset. Outside each gate was a bamboo bridge spanning the moat and in times of war these bridges were taken away and the gates firmly closed. Throughout their history the walls and the gates have survived the ravages of time and the onslaught of invading armies through a continuous process of decay and repair. The city gates were restored in 1801, during the reign of Phra Chao Kawila. It was the Japanese in the 1940's, during their occupation of Thailand, who ended an era when they used the bricks from the walls to build a road up to Pai. The Japanese also took spans from the original Nawarat Bridge to make a bridge on that road which you can still see today. The gates and corners were rebuilt once again between 1966-1969.
700 years later, all that remains of King Mengrai's original fortifications are 4 gates; Tha Pae Gate was rebuilt again in 1975, and the 4 corners with it. The walls may mostly be gone but memories of the history of the city live on in the names of these once illustrious portals.
