社會(huì)
Lala2018-09-20
Lala
職業(yè)雙語(yǔ)播音員
資深美音口語(yǔ)培訓(xùn)師
今日導(dǎo)讀
講到時(shí)尚界，我們腦海里浮現(xiàn)的可能都是模特和設(shè)計(jì)師光鮮靚麗、從容瀟灑的模樣?？墒?，最近在法國(guó)出版的一本書卻顛覆了我們的這一印象。這本書引起了法國(guó)媒體的一片嘩然，報(bào)刊紛紛發(fā)出了《時(shí)尚的陰暗面》和《基于無薪工作的富豪行業(yè)》這樣的專題報(bào)道。這本書到底表達(dá)了什么觀點(diǎn)呢？我們今天就跟著 Lala 老師來解讀一下作者的觀點(diǎn)吧！
帶著問題聽講解
Q1: 文中用多少形容詞描繪了時(shí)尚行業(yè)？
Q2: “a blurring of the line”中介詞 of 表達(dá)的是什么意思？
Q3: 用自己的話總結(jié)一下為什么 Mia 這樣的“時(shí)尚民工”甘于被剝削。
新聞?wù)?/p>
Chanel shoes, but no salary: how one woman exposed the scandal of the French fashion industry
穿著香奈兒鞋子，卻沒有工資：一名女性對(duì)法國(guó)時(shí)尚界丑聞的曝光
Giulia Mensitieri, an alumnus of one of France’s elite universities, takes little to no personal interest in clothes. So it is likely to have been an ugly surprise to the French fashion industry that her PhD—now a book entitled The Most Beautiful Job in the World—has opened up its secretive profession in such a dramatically public way.?
吉烏莉婭·蒙斯提亞里是法國(guó)某精英大學(xué)的校友，她個(gè)人對(duì)衣服沒什么興趣。所以，她的著作揭露業(yè)界丑聞這件事對(duì)法國(guó)時(shí)尚界來說，可能是個(gè)討厭的意外。她的博士論文現(xiàn)在已是一本名為《世界最美職業(yè)》的書，它用一種充滿戲劇性的公開方式揭露了法國(guó)時(shí)尚界不為大眾所知的職業(yè)內(nèi)幕。
The reality of fashion was illustrated by Mensitieri’s chance introduction to her subject matter. She met “Mia”, a successful Italian stylist who had moved to Paris: “She was wearing Chanel shoes and being flown across the world in business class.” But Mia couldn’t afford to rent a room, so she was couch surfing at a friend’s house. “She was eating McDonald’s every day. She never knew when she would be paid for a job and how much she would get. For a week’s work, a very big luxury brand gave her a voucher for ￡4,500 to spend in their boutique.”?
蒙斯提亞里無意間接觸了她的研究題材，而這一題材描繪了時(shí)尚界的現(xiàn)實(shí)。她遇見了“米婭”，一位移居法國(guó)、事業(yè)成功的意大利籍造型師：“她穿著香奈兒的鞋子，坐著商務(wù)艙滿世界飛。”但米婭付不起房租，所以她在一個(gè)朋友家睡沙發(fā)?！八刻於荚诔喳湲?dāng)勞。她從來不知道她什么時(shí)候能收到工資，也不知道她能拿多少錢。作為她一周工作的報(bào)酬，一家很大的奢侈品牌給了她一張?jiān)谒麄儠r(shí)裝店里使用的、價(jià)值 4500 英鎊的代金券?！?
True, Mia could have sold it. But Mensitieri points out that working in fashion means being seen in a constantly updated uniform of beautiful, expensive clothes and accessories—paid for by vouchers instead of a salary.?
確實(shí)，米婭本來也可以把代金券賣出去。但蒙斯提亞里指出，在時(shí)尚界工作意味著穿著一身“制服”示人，這種“制服”由不斷升級(jí)的華貴衣服和飾品構(gòu)成—— “制服”是用代金券支付的，而不是用薪水。
“The message is, you don’t have to be paid because you are lucky to be there at all. Working in fashion is hyper socially validating, even if you’re unpaid. Fashion presents itself as something exceptional, a world outside the ordinary,” she says.
“這種現(xiàn)象傳遞的信息是，你不需要薪水，是因?yàn)槟隳茉谀抢锕ぷ骶托疫\(yùn)得要命了。在時(shí)尚界工作是超級(jí)有社會(huì)認(rèn)同感的，哪怕你沒有薪水。時(shí)尚界將自己塑造成一種不同尋常的樣子，一個(gè)區(qū)分于平凡的世界?！彼f道。
“To me, fashion is the very centre of contemporary capitalism—it upholds the old forms of exploitation and the new, very modern forms which are more a kind of self-exploitation, a blurring of the line between your work and everything you are outside of work.”
“對(duì)于我來說，時(shí)尚是當(dāng)代資本主義的正中心——它維護(hù)著舊形態(tài)的剝削和新型的、非?，F(xiàn)代形態(tài)的剝削。這種剝削更多的是一種自我剝削和一種界限上的模糊，模糊的是你的工作和你工作外的一切之間的界限?！?
—————? 文章來源 / 衛(wèi)報(bào)
重點(diǎn)詞匯
alumnus/??l?mn?s/
n. 校友
a book entitled …
一本名叫 … 的書
open up
揭露，公開
secretive /?si?kr?t?v/
adj. 保密的；不為人知的
e.g.
He’s being very secretive about his new girlfriend.
dramatically /dr??m?t?kli/
adv. 戲劇性地；夸張地
chance/t??ns/
adj. 偶然的，意外的
subject matter
題材；內(nèi)容
e.g.
The subject matter of this course is sociology.
stylist /?sta?l?st/
n. 造型師，設(shè)計(jì)師
afford to do sth.
負(fù)擔(dān)得起做某事的費(fèi)用
e.g.
My family cannot afford to put me in a private school.
couch surf
做沙發(fā)客；進(jìn)行沙發(fā)旅行
boutique/bu??ti?k/
n. 時(shí)裝店；精品店
accessory /?k?ses?ri/
n. 配飾
e.g.
a set of fully matching clothes and accessories
hyper/?ha?p?r/
adj. 超級(jí)；非常
validating/?v?l?de?t??/
adj. 認(rèn)同的；具有認(rèn)同感的
e.g.
Working as a teacher is validating.?
unpaid/??n?pe?d/
adj. 無償?shù)?；沒有薪水的
exceptional/?k?sep??nl/
adj. 不同尋常的；獨(dú)特的
e.g.
Daniel’s command of grammatical knowledge is exceptional.
ordinary/???rdneri/
adj. 平凡的；普通的
contemporary /k?n?temp?reri/
adj. 當(dāng)代的
uphold/?p?ho?ld/
v. 維持；保持
e.g.
uphold educational standards
exploitation/?ekspl???te??n/
n. 剝削
a blurring of the line between … and …
一種對(duì) … 和 … 之間界限的模糊
拓展內(nèi)容
“時(shí)尚民工”的工資和心態(tài)
《世界最美職業(yè)》中還采訪了另一位某知名奢侈品牌的資深員工。這名員工雖然為 Lady Gaga 等名人做過造型、負(fù)責(zé)著產(chǎn)品線三分之一的設(shè)計(jì)，拿到手的卻只是最低工資。同時(shí)，被她視為天才和精神導(dǎo)師的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)，每月的工資足足有 1 萬(wàn) 1 千多英鎊。她其實(shí)心知肚明，她的月資漲幅僅需增加 90 英鎊就可以讓她的生活過得寬裕些，但那位總監(jiān)卻遲遲不肯提薪。在看清現(xiàn)實(shí)后，這名員工最終選擇了離職。
蒙斯提亞里把這種現(xiàn)象稱之為“對(duì)支配的美化”。員工把像總監(jiān)這樣的控制者捧上神壇，從而將控制者對(duì)他們的剝削合理化。蒙斯提亞里用新自由主義的觀點(diǎn)解釋了這種“對(duì)控制的美化”。她認(rèn)為，員工將結(jié)構(gòu)性的支配（也就是上級(jí)的剝削）個(gè)體化了，這導(dǎo)致員工把這些剝削行為當(dāng)做是個(gè)人主觀層面上的問題。比如，遭到剝削的低薪員工哪怕總是因?yàn)榧?xì)枝末節(jié)的事情被無端責(zé)罵，卻還總在強(qiáng)調(diào)剝削者的特殊性?！八墒莻€(gè)天才，天才都是這樣的。”
對(duì)了，官方數(shù)據(jù)稱，香奈兒的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)卡爾·拉格菲（又稱“老佛爺”）的凈身價(jià)高達(dá)兩億美元。
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