典雅之愛與十字軍東征
公元1100年-1200年
潮流在十二世紀逐漸絢麗起來 -- 一個十字軍，羅曼史與騎士精神的時代。
一種活潑有品味的潮流風尚在地中海沿岸自南向北傳播開來。
服飾變得更合身誘人，第一時間展現(xiàn)身體曲線。
歌頌典雅愛情故事的效果，就是引起人們對擁有，花邊下展現(xiàn)繡花的寬松連衣絲綢禮服的幻想。
服裝剪裁仍舊以矩形和三角形面料為主，但是花邊打破了直筒造型與曲線造型之間的不平衡。
即便是平民女性穿著她們的袍子也更加貼合腰部，手臂和臀部。
男性服飾也加長并且收身了。
貴族男女都穿著布里奧特briaut與布里亞爾brial，一款用昂貴絲綢精心制作，帶有拖地下擺與長袖的袍子。
配飾都是長的，包括尖頭鞋，長發(fā)，精致斗篷與披風。
宗教與世俗風格開始不同。
絲綢
這塊帶有獅子與鷹身女妖圖案的彩花細錦緞絲綢碎片，展示了十二世紀織布者的非凡技藝。
奢華的絲綢紡織品是極其稀有與昂貴的，它們擁有引人注目的名字像samite錦緞，Alexandria ciclaton，taffeta塔夫綢還有l(wèi)ampas蘭帕細花錦緞，在這個充滿羅曼故事的年代被記錄了下來。
絲綢不但豐滿又挺括，它的價值還體現(xiàn)在精美，透明與輕盈。
絲綢是理想的高端禮物，它們輕便且不易損壞，是理想的長途旅行攜帶品。
COURTLY LOVE AND CRUSADES
1100-1200
Fashion became increasingly flamboyant in the 12th century -- a time of crusaders, romances, and chivalry.
Vivacious, sophisticated fashions cultivated in the south spread north from Mediterranean shores.
Clothing became more seductively fitted, showing the body's shape for the first time.
Tales of courtly love celebrated this effect, conjuring visions of figure-hugging silk gowns revealing embroidered chemises beneath laced sides.
Garments were still based mainly on rectangular and triangular fabric cuts, but with lacing to crush straight shapes against the curved figure.
Even ordinary women wore their tunics more closely over waist, arms, and hips.
Men's clothing also lengthened and tightened.
Noble people of both sexes wore the bliaut or brial, a tunic made of fine, expensive silk with trailing hems and long sleeves.
Accessories were long, pointed shoes, long hair, and elaborate cloaks and mantles.
Religious and secular clothing styles began to differ.
SILK
This fragment of silk lampas with a pattern of lions and harpies shows the extraordinary skill of 12th-century weavers.
Luxury silk textiles were highly prized and expensive, with alluring names like samite, Alexandria ciclaton, taffeta, and lampas recorded in romance tales of the times.
Silks were either rich and stiff or valued for their delicacy, transparency, and light draping.
Silks made ideal high-status gifts, since they were light and unbreakable during long-distance travel.
-- 《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》
